Hong Kong translates to “fragrant harbor” in Cantonese. It’s a kaleidoscopic neon metropolis that’s always in motion with frenzied traffic and a hectic pace. Its MTR subway, taxis, ferries, trams, buses, minibuses, and funicular, all encourage efficient movement. HK offers a feast for the senses and of course your stomach because Hong Kongers think about eating all day. You’ll happily bump elbows at communal tables whether you’re grabbing a meal in daylight or enjoying siu yeh (midnight snacks). Hong Kongers also love to shop till they drop at small streets and at giant megamalls.
The best views of the skyline are at Ozone on the 118th floor of ICC or from the Palace Museum. During Chinese New Year, watch a half-hour fireworks extravaganza while locals decorate the city, eat special dishes, and play mahjong.
| Adventures | Recommendations | Food | Transportation | Lodgings |
ADVENTURES
Hike Lantau
On Lantau Island’s trails, explore nature just an hour from HK’s skyscrapers. Hike from the mountain pass of Pak Kung Au to Pui O Beach. Enjoy views of Lantau’s southern coast and HK Island.
Bowen Road
Run along car-free Bowen Road in Mid-Levels. The route is 5 km with stellar views of the cityscape. In this forested refuge, it’s easy to forget the frenetic city below. Hail a cab to/from the route.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Central
All the action is in Central, the dazzling commercial heart of HK. See its iconic buildings, high-end shops, and financial engines. In between eating and shopping, gaze at skyscrapers such as the HSBC Building, Bank of China Tower, and 2 IFC.
Hong Kong Park
Hong Kong Park is an oasis beside the city’s financial jungle and skyscrapers. At the giant water lily pond, you can spot frogs, turtles, and dragonflies. You can also explore its tai chi garden, greenhouse, and aviary.
Victoria Peak
Ride the funicular to the anvil-shaped Peak Tower with its shops and restaurants, but you’re really here for the cityscape. From this commanding position, you can gaze at Victoria Harbour and the sparkling skyscrapers lining the coast.
Mid-Levels
The Central—Mid-Levels Escalator is the world’s longest escalator system. The escalators travel 2,600 feet and rise 443 feet connecting Central with the affluent Mid-Levels. Float along and watch the city like in “Chungking Express.”
Temple Street
Once the sun goes down, everyone is here to find what they need. Shoppers haggle over clothing, watches, and trinkets. Bask in the colorful neon and energy of its stalls. Recharge with siu yeh (late-night snacks) at a dai pai dong (open-air food stall).
Jade Market
For millennia, the Chinese have linked the gemstone with transcendental qualities. Dozens of jewelers display the green symbols of prosperity and immortality. A jade Chinese zodiac animal makes a great gift.
Flower Market
In Mong Kok, freshly cut flowers and houseplants overflow into the sidewalks. During Chinese New Year, the roadside is full of orchids, orange trees, peach blossoms, chrysanthemums, and lucky bamboos.
Avenue of the Stars
Kowloon’s answer to the Hollywood Walk of Fame celebrates HK cinema and has a statue of Bruce Lee. Handprints honor stars such as Jackie Chan, Michelle Yeoh, and Jet Li. At the waterfront, you’re in the front row for HK Island’s skyline.
Symphony of Lights
At 8 pm, find a seat at Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade and prepare for a spectacle. Synchronized lights paint the skyline. Lasers dance from Bank of China Tower to the spaceship-inspired HSBC building and land on 2 IFC.
Lantau Island
Lantau is a peaceful escape from HK’s urban commotion. The Tian Tan Buddha sits on a lotus flower throne high on a hill. Climb 268 steps for a closer look and soak in the coastal scenery. Try a vegetarian meal at the Po Lin Monastery.
Man Mo Temple
The round green tiles on the low-slung building are a stark contrast to the modern skyscrapers rising behind the temple. Dozens of incense coils hang from the ceiling and slowly burn carrying prayers to the heavens.
Man Wa Lane
At Man Wa Lane, or Chop Alley, this narrow backstreet has stalls of expert seal carvers. Chops are stone seals used to sign art and documents. At a chop shop, they can carve your name onto a stone with your zodiac animal.
Monster Building
The massive complex in Quarry Bay epitomizes high-density living in a vertical city with 10,000 people in 2,234 units. The five buildings are so close they form towering canyons. In every direction, you see rising walls of homes.
Tsim Sha Tsui
Next to Victoria Harbour, TST has the best viewpoints of Hong Kong’s skyline. Walk around its shops, malls, restaurants, and bars. Visit Chungking Mansions and its mix of South Asian, Middle East, and African cultures.
Ozone
Ozone is a sky deck at the top of the ICC – the tallest building in HK. Just getting here from the street is an adventure through driveways, escalators, and elevators. From the 118th floor, you have panoramic views of HK Island’s shiny landmarks.
Sai Kung
From the pier, step into a seafood lover’s paradise. At Hung Kee, point to your dinner in the massive tanks and dine al fresco. Feast on sea urchin-steamed egg, pissing shrimp, razor clams in black bean sauce, scallops on the shell, and sliced geoduck.
Happy Valley
In HK, Happy Valley Racecourse is where you go on Wednesdays. If you know the right people, you can view horses at the parade ring before the race. After the race, head to the Hong Kong Jockey Club restaurant for fine dining.
Times Square
Times Square has a vertical mall with global dining options. In the basement, City’super is an upscale grocery with aspirational items such as a $22 strawberry. The new year’s countdown occurs outside by the giant digital billboards.
Kowloon Walled City
Densely populated Kowloon Walled City had 33,000 people crammed into a concrete slum the size of a city block. Till its demolition, it was a lawless den of vice. A Qing Dynasty garden park has replaced the dystopia.
FOOD
If you arrive at a spot when it’s busy, you’ll probably be seated at a table with strangers. After you’re seated, you may see a big bowl next to a teapot filled with hot water or tea. Use this to wash your utensils. Give your chopsticks, teacups, bowls, and plates a quick rinse. When you’re ready to pay, grab the check and take it to the counter.
Claypot Rice
Like paella, the highlight is the crunchy layer of rice at the bottom. At Hing Kee, customize your rich flavorful rice with toppings, such as chicken, sausage, pork spare ribs, and eel. You need to wait before removing the lid of the lava-hot claypot.
Roast Goose
Enjoy small plates of delectable snacks with tea. Bring a group so you can try everything. The food is stacked high in steamer baskets. Start with har gow (shrimp dumplings), siu mai (pork and shrimp dumplings), BBQ pork buns, and egg tarts.
Wonton
At Mak’s Noodle, the plump shrimp dumplings are in delicate paper-thin wrappers. The fish-based broth is flavorful. The bamboo noodles are thin, firm, and wiry. On the first bite, the fragrant sesame oil flavor shines through.
Char Siu
The barbecued pork is tender, marbled, and juicy with a lacquered glaze and charred edges. The glaze is caramelized so the meat crackles with each sweet and savory bite. Cantonese roasted meats shops hang char siu by the window.
Dim Sum
Enjoy tea and steamer baskets stacked high with delectable snacks. Go yum cha with a group so you can try everything. Start with har gow (shrimp dumplings), siu mai (pork and shrimp dumplings), BBQ pork buns, and egg tarts.
Egg Tart
For daan tat, what are you in the mood for? Are you looking for traditional egg custard or Portuguese custard? Do you want a puff pastry or cookie crust? There’s no wrong answer. Sample the city’s best egg tarts and decide which type is best.
Double Skin Milk
The skin refers to the thin layer that forms when milk cools. The steamed milk pudding is smooth and cold like a panna cotta, but richer and creamier. Go to Yee Shun for the best double skin milk. You can also get it hot or with ginger or papaya.
Oi Man Sang
A dai pai dong is an open-air food stall with fiery woks. Oi Man Sang is one of the last outdoor kitchens in HK that uses kerosene for the hottest woks. Get the typhoon shelter crab and razor clams.
Black Sesame Soup
These traditional Cantonese sweet, soupy desserts are served hot or cold. Popular varieties include black sesame, almond, walnut, mango sago pomelo. At Kai Kai Dessert, you can also get them half and half.
Abalone
Shaped like a gold ingot and named bao yu, meaning assured abundance, it is the highlight of a Cantonese feast. The firm abalone is slowly braised in a savory meat gravy, tender like squid, with a sweet and delicate taste.
Cha Chaan Teng
A cha chaan teng is a classic HK-style diner serving mash-ups of Western dishes with Chinese flavors. Try pineapple buns with pats of butter, milk tea, and yuen yeung, a mix of milk tea and coffee.
Shark Fin Soup
Shark fin soup has always been a delicacy, reserved for wedding banquets and emperors. The broth is luscious and velvety from chicken, ham, black vinegar, and shiitake mushrooms. The fine threads have a snappy gelatinous texture.
Snake Soup
Hong Kongers slurp snake soup in the winter for its health benefits. The slithering soup has snake, fish maw, chicken, ham, dried mandarin peel, and wood ear fungus. The snake tastes like chicken and the dish is like hot and sour soup. Also sample plates of rice with lap cheong and liver sausage.
TRANSPORTATION
HK is the ultimate vertical city. The Mid-Levels escalator climbs from the sea to the top of the hills. Ride the Peak Tram up the mountains. To cross large roads, follow underground passageways or futuristic footbridges curving in spirals around intersections. Reach skyscraper observation decks by trekking through a maze of parking lots, elevators, and malls. To get from HK Island to Kowloon, ride the waves on a Star Ferry, drive under Victoria Harbour in a tunnel, or take the subway. Even buses and ding dings are double-deckers.
Octopus Card
Use the Octopus Card for subways, buses, ferries, trams, and Airport Express. Top up the card at any 7-11 with cash.
Star Ferry
The famous Star Ferry crosses the harbor to Kowloon from Central and Wan Chai.
Subway
The subway is the best way to zip around the city. Take the correct exit at the station or walk an extra mile.
Airport Express
This is the fastest way from HKG to Central, in 30 minutes. It’s cheaper than a taxi.
Tram
Affectionately known as “Ding Dings,” double-deckers are great for getting around districts.
Harbour Crossing
Cross-Harbour Tunnel, Eastern Harbour Crossing, and Western Harbour Crossing
Taxi
The fleet of red taxis is undergoing a major upgrade. If you have more than four people, just hail an Uber XL.
Bus
Pay the fare using exact change. You can’t use the Octopus card to swipe others in.
Footbridges
The Central Elevated Walkway is an extensive network of covered pedestrian bridges linking skyscrapers.
RECOMMENDED LODGINGS
Stay as close to Central on Hong Kong Island. Enjoy Central’s lively area’s skyscrapers, malls, historic sites, cultural spots, and nightlife in Lan Kwai Fong.
Courtyard by Marriot Hong Kong
The Courtyard Marriot Hong Kong is between Central and Kennedy Town, a decently located hotel with views of skyscrapers. Next time, I would stay right in the heart of Central.
Renaissance HK Harbour View
With a waterfront location by Wan Chai, you have a commanding view of Victoria Harbour. From the 11th floor, run while watching the outdoor pool and garden.
Keep Exploring!
Africa | Antarctica | Asia | Australia | Europe | Middle East | North America | South America