Cambodia is a special place where the modern and the ancient worlds collide. Its rich cultural traditions still sing to you throughout this charming land. At its height in the 12th century, the Khmer Empire ruled in Angkor, the largest pre-industrial city. While most only know about Angkor Wat, there are grand monuments all across the country. The people are warm and friendly. The food is a delicious blend of fresh ingredients and spice pastes. Visit during the dry season, which is still undeniably hot, humid, and full of mosquitoes. The country is currently experiencing rapid growth, with a brand-new airport and construction projects. As for currency, you can use either Riels or US Dollars interchangeably.

MUST SEES: PHNOM PENH

Phnom Penh is an energetic juxtaposition of flashing neon lights and golden pagodas. The old city is flush with tuk tuks, motorbikes, and Range Rovers. A city on the rise, they are constantly raising new skyscrapers. The sidewalks are narrow, so you need to watch out for motorcycles trying to squeeze past the cars. Everywhere you look there are food carts cooking something for the hungry populace.

Royal Palace

The Royal Palace is at the confluence of three rivers. After Angkor, Phnom Penh finally became the capital in the 18th century. By 1870, the palace was built with a throne hall, temple, murals, and stupas, and gilded Khmer rooftops.

National Museum

The finest collection of Khmer art in stone spans over a millennium. It includes Hindu statues of Shiva, Ganesha, and Vishnu from the 9th to 11th centuries. The Khmer artifacts also include bronze figurines from before the Angkor period.

Wat Phnom

Legend has it Lady Phnom saw a floating koki tree with four Buddha statues (bronze, brass, and marble). Penh had the villagers to build a wat (temple) to store the statues. Atop the hill is a Buddhist temple with a white stupa.

Bassac Lane

Visit Bassac Lane’s narrow alley for its nightlife. Check out its many restaurants and funky watering holes. Along the sort of pedestrian zone, you’ll see many motorbikes crammed with multiple riders.

Independence Monument

The lotus-shaped stupa stands high at the center of a busy roundabout. It celebrates independence from France in 1953. Traffic at the roundabout is intense and ever flowing. Crossing it is an adventure of its own.

Neak Banh Park

Neak Banh Park is popular with runners and walkers after sunset. There are giant water fountains in the center. It’s also fun to explore the food stalls on some of the side streets by the park.

MUST SEES: ANGKOR

Siem Reap is the gateway to the temples of Angkor. The Khmer Empire controlled vast lands in Southeast Asia through its sophisticated water management system of canals, reservoirs, and channels. It ruled from 802 to 1431 at its capital in Angkor. The ancient city of Angkor spans 40 miles with many temples throughout the region. Its ruins are found in the forests north of Siem Reap. Angkor Wat is the most famous temple of the Angkor Temple Complex. Hire a tuk tuk to drive you for a couple days around the monuments.

Angkor Wat

Suryavarman II built the stepped pyramid temple in 1150 for the Hindu deity Vishnu. It follows the temple-mountain concept of Khmer architecture. When Jayavarman VII restored the empire, he rededicated the temple to Buddhism.

Bayon

At Angkor Thom, last of the Khmer capitals, Bayon’s many stone faces smile from each side of the towers. Poking above the rooftops are heads with multiple faces with the same face – Jayavarman VII.

Ta Prohm

The Tomb Raider temple is known for its jungle surroundings and trees growing out of the ruins. Tangled roots squeeze crumbling stones. Large piles of blocks are scattered across the temple – like a box of brown and green Lego bricks.

Preah Khan

Charming Holy Sword Temple is unrestored, swallowed up by nature, and full of fallen stones. Sword wielding stone guards protect its long hallways. The royal sword was once kept here, but in 1970, it disappeared and has never been seen again.

Neak Pean

A long skinny bridge crosses a reservoir filled with lotus buds and water lilies. It leads to an island with a Buddhist temple of geometric walkways and reflective pools. They used the healing pools to balance the elements of earth, water, fire, and air.

Ta Som

Ta Som is a small temple almost lost to the deep forest. Jayavarman VII dedicated the temple to his father who ruled from 1150 to 1160. The temple consists of a single shrine located on one level and surrounded by an enclosure of laterite walls.

East Mebon

In 953, Rajendravarman dedicated East Mebon to Shiva. The three-tiered temple has elephants and lions at its gateways. The temple was once reached by boat as shown by four landing areas at its base.

Pre Rup

Climb a thrilling staircase to the top of a square step pyramid. On the square platform, explore the five towers and soak in amazing views of the dense forest. Cambodians believe funerals were conducted at the temple.

Banteay Srei

The temple’s name, Banteay Srei, citadel of the women, refers to the beauty of the bas relief carvings. Far from the crowds of the main temples, the elaborate carvings depict key scenes from Hindu mythology.

Countryside

See the stilt houses on the drive to Banteay Srei. Along the countryside, stands offer jackfruit and coconuts. One major street serves as a hub where people come to exchange goods. You can enjoy treats such as palm coconut cakes and roast pork.

FOOD

Amok

Fish is steamed in a banana leaf with coconut milk and kroeung. The amok offers flaky and moist pieces of fish coated in a yellow curry. The texture is like a soufflé or custard and the amok is topped with coconut cream and lime leaf ribbons.

Papaya Salad

The salad has a base of thin crunchy strips of papaya. The dressing is sweet and savory from fish sauce and tamarind sauce. Exciting toppings such as shrimp and squid can be added. Large chunks of juicy pomelo add sweetness and bitterness.

Prahok

This bold paste of spicy fermented fish sauce is savory, sweet, spicy, and a bit funky. Dip the fresh raw vegetables in the tasty paste. Better yet, get it with grilled steak and dunk that in the delicious prahok as well.

Lort Cha

They cook the rice noodles on a wok, which provides plenty of flavor. The bean sprouts and chives add crunch. The pâté is like a sliced meatball and with fishcakes, they add crispiness to the dish. The fried egg is thick and gooey.

Samlor Korko

Eggplants and potatoes thicken the delicious stew in the claypot. Lemongrass, turmeric, and ginger build comforting flavors. Chunks of pork ribs are succulent and tasty. Tender lotus roots and delicate green leaves add wonderful textures.

Beef Lok Lak

The tender beef cubes have a silky sauce of pepper, oyster sauce, and garlic. The green kampot peppercorns are soft and pop when you bite into them revealing a juicy, fragrant, citrus flavor! The vibrant green peppercorns are the star. 

Num Banh Chok

The fermented rice noodles are extremely soft. The plate has flower blossoms, basil, and cucumbers. A bowl contains a yellow curry of minced fish and coconut milk. Combine everything. The noodles are soft and creamy.

Natang

The natang sauce is a combo of minced pork, shrimp, lime leaves, peanuts, and coconut milk. There are fried sticky rice and vegetable tempura for dipping into the natang. The lightly battered vegetables absorb the meaty and aromatic flavors well. 

Khmer Curry

The coconut cream curry is accentuated by lemongrass and lime leaves. The comforting flavors are combined with an assortment of potatoes, sweet potatoes, beans, eggplants, and onions. For the protein, choose between chicken, fish, or prawns.

Coconut Palm Cake

This cake contains palm sugar pulp, rice flour, coconut milk, and shredded coconut. It’s steamed in banana leaves for a soft chewy texture and fruity flavor. Look for it near East Mebon and try it while it’s still warm with extra coconut cream.

Chives Cakes

Rice flour forms the shell of the cake. While deep fried to a golden-brown crispy exterior, the rice batter is still smooth and gooey. The chives are soft and give an onion slash garlic flavor. The cakes have a perfect balance of softness and crispiness.

LOGISTICS

Pavilion

In chaotic Phnom Penh, it is a complete surprise when you arrive at Pavilion. The pool by the colonial pastel yellow building glistens like a dazzling gemstone beneath palm trees. The huge room has windows looking out to a pool and lanterns.

Drive to Siem Reap

Arrange the journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap through your departing hotel. The private car takes 6 hours and you should expect to pay $90 in cash to the driver. Not all drivers speak English. Along the way, you will see ancient bridges.

Viroth’s

At Siem Reap, Viroth’s is a wonderful place to unwind after visiting monuments around Angkor Wat. The terraced hotel has a beautiful pool where you can swim under lush green plants. You’ll be treated like royalty with cold towels and drinks. 

Tuk Tuk

Hire a tuk tuk driver. On the first day, the Small Circuit includes Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm. The second day follows the Grand Circuit to Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon, and Pre Rup, plus Banteay Srei (for an extra $5). It’s $20 for Day 1 and $30 for Day 2, both of which take about 6 hours.

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