Romania is one of Europe’s last great wildernesses. However, Transylvania isn’t just old-growth forests, rugged mountains, and pastoral havens. Its cities have fortified churches, castles, and painted monasteries. Ancient Romans, Dacians, and Celts left their mark as did medieval Hungarians and Germans. Hurry to Romania to visit a people whose ancient traditions are still alive and never stopped eating farm-to-table.

Thanks to good friends for the ultimate immersive experience by letting me stay with their families as we explored Romania.

Adventures | Must Sees: Transylvania | Must Sees: Bonus | Food

MUST SEES: TRANSYLVANIA

Cluj-Napoca

Cluj is the cosmopolitan heart of Transylvania, with many cultural, technological, and academic institutions. See the statue of Matthias Corvinus, who was born in Cluj. For the best view of the city, hike to the top of Cetățuia Hill, also a popular make-out spot.

Petroșani

From the mining town of Petroșani, drive 30 minutes to the resort in the Parâng Mountains of the Southern Carpathians. Enjoy your time in the beautiful mountains searching for wild blueberries. From the chalets, go skiing. Or hike to the top of Parângul Mic.

Transalpina

Transalpina is the highest road in Romania. Shepherds first used this route to lead their flocks over the mountains. Drive past spectacular hairpin turns and view lovely panoramas from the Urdele Pass. You may still see some sheep and donkeys along the misty mountain roads.

Sibiu

Get lost in Sibiu’s charming medieval alleys, arches, and curving cobblestone streets. The Grand Square is the city center with pastel walls and rooftops with eyebrow windows. Climb the spiral stairs to the top of the Council Tower and view the copper dome and steeples below.

Cincşor

Starting in the 12^th century, Germans settled in Transylvania to defend against invaders from Central Asia and the Turks. The Germans built a medieval fortified church with double walls in Cincşor in 1427. During invasions, people huddled inside the walls.

Cincu

The Transylvanian Saxons built a fortified church at the top of the hill. The Lutheran church originally had a Romanesque design, but was redesigned in the Gothic style. The settlers couldn’t afford to build a castle, so they fortified the largest building in the village to withstand sieges.

Castelul Bran

Bring garlic! OK, Dracula didn’t really live here, but it looks like the kind of place where he would. Vlad Țepeș was too busy viciously impaling enemies. Bran Castle is both intimidating and beautiful at the same time. Come for its secret passageways, hidden chambers, and creaky hallways.

Râșnov

Teutonic Knights built the massive fortress on a rocky hilltop in 1225. Romanian and German soldiers were garrisoned against attackers crossing the Carpathians at the Bran Pass. The inner court was a village with houses, a school, and a chapel.

Brașov

From the colorful building in Old Townhall Square beneath the Hollywood-style sign, there’s much to explore. Shimmy past narrow Rope Street and view the Gothic Black Church. Meander along a stream by the inner wall. Climb up the outer wall, visit the towers, and enjoy the view.

Peleș Castle

Peleș Castle is a masterpiece of Neo-Renaissance architecture, one of the most stunning palaces in Europe. Carol I richly appointed the Baroque interior with paintings, marble, teak furniture, and exquisite fabrics. Explore the palace’s secret passageways.

Sarmizegetusa

Sarmizegetusa was the military, religious, and political capital of Dacia. The Dacians were ancient inhabitants of the area before the Roman conquest. The large circular temple with upright posts is full of mystery and primeval secrets. Could the neighboring Celts have influenced their sacrificial rituals?

Maramureș

Maramureș is a region in the northeastern Carpathians with wonderful scenery and farms. Through the centuries, carpenters built over 100 wooden churches. You can also see this craftsmanship in the intricately carved wooden gateways of farmhouses.

Baia Mare

Baia Mare is a great base for day trips to the abundant cultural attractions in Maramureş. Visit Baia Mare for its rustic charms and experience what it’s like to live in its beautiful farms.

Bârsana Monastery

Bârsana is a complex of wooden buildings and an Orthodox church. As you stroll past the well-manicured gardens, you will notice the tall pointy spire rising from the tower. Follow the cobblestone walkway to the bell tower, summer altar, and artist’s workshop.

Sighetu Marmației

Sighetu Marmației is a former totalitarian prison on the Tisa River next to Ukraine. After WWII, the Soviets occupied Romania, set up a puppet government, and locked up political leaders, clergy, prisoners of war, and also criminals. Deaths numbered in the tens of thousands.

Săpânța

The Merry Cemetery’s bright blue memorials have painted scenes from villagers’ lives and zany inscriptions. Many of the epitaphs poke fun at embarrassing character flaws or peculiar deaths. Some images celebrate how they lived, such as riding a tractor, working a loom, playing a violin, or picking apples.

MUST SEES: BONUS

Stork’s Nest

White storks are migratory birds that spend their spring and summer in Romania. As you drive around the countryside, you may notice the occasional giant stork’s nest on a telephone pole.

Shepherd’s Cloaks

Some shepherds still wear long wooly cloaks (sarică) while tending their flocks. The thick and heavy garments keep them warm and toasty in the rugged mountains. They also symbolize the deep bond between shepherds and their sheep.

Rooftop Eyes

On certain rooftops, there are eyebrow dormers, which are little windows with mini-Baroque-style gables. As you walk around, the colorful houses seem like they are watching you. Poorly hidden spying devices or ventilation systems for attics, you be the judge? Go to Sibiu to see rooftops that see you back.

Haystacks

You will see more haystacks in farms close to the mountains. Farms store hay as food for livestock during the harsh winters. Farmers hold a tall stick and stomp on the hay in a circle around the stick. The distinctive bell shape directs snow and water to the ground to prevent rot.

FOOD

Mămăligă

Mămăligă is cornmeal (similar to polenta) that has a soft and pudding-like consistency. It is sometimes boiled with milk or yogurt. Serve it with cheese and sour cream. The sour cream melts a bit into the creamy and briny mamaliga.

Sarmale

Sarmale are cabbage rolls with a filling of pork, rice, onions, and dill. They are slowly simmered in a large pot with tomatoes, smoked pork, and water. These time-consuming delicacies are enjoyed during holidays, especially with a dollop of sour cream.

Mici

The best way to make mici is by freshly grinding the pork and lamb. Add spices and a little mineral water and form them into small meat rolls. Grill them on a wood fire and enjoy the fruits of your labor with lots of mustard.

Salată de Vinete

Salată is an eggplant salad spread. Eggplants are grilled, mashed, and mixed with onions, garlic, salt, oil, and mayonnaise. Eat the smoky and creamy dip with a thick slice of bread.

Curechi de Pepene

This delicious soup contains julienned cabbage and grated zucchini boiled in yogurt. You eat it with a spicy red pepper.

Cozonac

Cozonac is a sweet bread/cake that is typically available during Christmas and Easter. It has a soft and tender texture with a dark walnut swirl.

Cremșnit

Cremșnit is a cake with dense custard between puff pastry layers. Similar to a Napoleon, it is crispy, creamy, and luscious. At Turda, stop for cremșnit and other treats.

Plăcintă

Plăcintă is a thin, fried, pancake-like pastry. Popular fillings include sour cherries, apples, and cheese with raisins, or savory ingredients such as potatoes or mushrooms.

Kürtőskalács

Hungarians in Transylvania invented kürtőskalács, which is a pastry wrapped around a spit, and cooked over an open fire.  The chimney cake is cylindrical, hollow, and dusted with sugar, cinnamon, and walnut powder. The best part is unfurling the crispy and soft strips.

Țuică

Țuică is a distilled moonshine from plums. Many rural families in Romania produce their own țuică for personal use or for favors. A shot of this potent fire water will quickly warm you up.

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