| Objective: Celebrating the Beautiful Game at the World Cup Where: Brazil | Russia | Qatar | USA, Mexico, Canada |
One of my favorite traditions is traveling every four years to the host nations of the World Cup. Is there a better way to experience the energy and excitement of the world’s most beautiful game firsthand? For a brief moment in time, football has the power to unify the world. On the field, flashes of brilliance captivate the fans. Off the field, the carnival atmosphere encourages heartwarming scenes of cultural exchange. Let’s revisit some of these shining soccer stories, from golden Brazilian beaches, regal Russia architecture, to sizzling Qatari sands.
| Brazil | Russia | Qatar | USA, Mexico, Canada |
A Global Celebration
Only eight nations out of a couple hundred have ever won the prize. For some, it’s an honor just to qualify. Others hope to get past the group stage or dream of a deep run. While some see returning without the trophy as a complete disaster. So, who’s going to take a star turn and become the next Pelé, Messi, Mbappé, or Maradona?
Unfurl the giant flags on the pitch. Sing along to both national anthems. Let the celebrations begin!
Brazil 2014
| When: 2014 Where: São Paulo, Iguaçu Falls, Rio, Manaus |
“This is Brazil!” Like its people, Brazil’s music, culture, and cuisine draw deeply from Portuguese, African, and indigenous influences. Brazilians really know how to celebrate as shown by their love of samba, dance, and rhythm. Likewise, their gracefulness on the football pitch popularized the term the Beautiful Game (O Jogo Bonito). It is fitting that my first World Cup should be in a hotbed of football. New to the game is vanishing spray for marking spots during free kicks and the ban of the vuvuzela noisemaker.
São Paulo
To get at the heart of Brazil’s obsession with football, visit the Museu do Futebol. There are video walls showing the best Brazilian goals ever scored. Pelé traps the ball with his chest and shoots the ball as it falls in mid-air to his foot. You can learn about the Pelé’s career and view the greatest of all time’s jersey and boots. There also mournful clips of Uruguay’s tragic victory over Brazil in Rio to secure the inaugural World Cup trophy.
At the newly constructed Arena Corinthians, host of the opening match, we observe all the final preparations. They are still setting up tents, painting walkways, placing signs, and completing the bridge from the subway to the stadium. The construction suffers from the deaths of two workers, huge delays, and severe cost overruns.
Iguaçu Falls
After an exhilarating boat ride under the mist of Iguaçu Falls, we feast on garlicky picanha steaks at a churrasco. Back in town, we watch the first half of Brazil’s first match at one of the packed sports bars. With some Dutch fans we met at the falls, we watch the second half. Waves of green and yellow jerseys rush to the streets in an eruption of music and a parade of cars. The next night, the Netherlands crushes Spain’s hopes. Rob van Persie scores one of the wonder goals of the tournament with a Flying Dutchman diving header.
Rio
On a subway from the Cristo statue, a car of Argentines chant and jump to CCR’s Bad Moon Rising. The fans flooded into Rio and teased their arch rivals by taunting how Maradona is greater than Pelé.
The black and white wavy tiles next to Copacabana Beach lead the way to FIFA Fan Fest. Groups of fans chant songs and the names of their countries. Flags are waving and shirts proudly display national colors. Fan Fest is a giant beach party with a giant screen, rock band, beach balls, fan store, and film-viewing tent. There are Americans everywhere you look. During half time, the beach goes crazy when the DJ lays down some wicked soul-shaking beats. The crowd is quiet when the game is even, but fortunately, in the end, the US scores the winning goal. The crowd goes nuts as the speakers blast Guns N Roses, Nirvana, and AC/DC. Brazilian fans start dropping powerful fireworks right in the middle of the street outside.
The boardwalk by the beach is chaotic. It’s wild weaving through the international fans and street performers. One hustler charges a fee and promises a reward if someone rides a bike with broken handlebars across the line. There are many people selling icy beverages out of coolers on the street.
During the second half of Russia vs. South Korea, we watch the game on the sand just outside Fan Fest. It’s a big contrast from the daytime beach scene of relaxed sunbathers.
Manaus
Manaus is a metropolis in the middle of a natural paradise by the Amazon jungle. Take a jungle cruise along the Amazon to Praia da Lua. Visit the Meeting of the Waters, the confluence of the dark tannin Negro River and the golden sandy Solimões River. The mysterious rainforest is dense with tall trees and colorful birds. Next to the rickety boardwalk in Marina do Davi, there are boats containing pineapples and rich and smoky tambaqui fish. At a little shed, with local fisherfolk, we watch Germany draw with Ghana on an old TV.
Fan Fest
In the historic core of the city, the green tiles of the iconic Teatro Amazonas dome sparkles under the sun. At the Fan Fest, dress up as Brahma beer cans, watch Messi on the big screens, and explore the booths. They have a temporary zipline from one side of the street to the other. We zipline from the cliff tower to the beach tower.
The city center has a pavement of wavy black and white tiles representing the Meeting of the Waters. Everyone is out for the game and concerts. The city welcomes the foreign visitors. Many people take pictures with us and ask where we’re from. We feel like celebrities because our photo is on the big screens. Some locals show us around town and take us to a pool hall.
Game Time
Tonight’s the night of the big match between the US and Portugal. We cross a spiral pedestrian bridge and march down a closed off street with fellow American and Portuguese fans. We pass an initial security checkpoint on the street and another street check divided by gender. Then it is one last one at the new Arena de Amazonia.
From our seats, you can see the whole field well. Throughout the game, the sky changes colors during sunset. Fans from both sides are wilding out with painted faces, wigs, flags, and banners. Someone needs to give a medal to the guy in the eagle costume with mask, tail, and yellow tights.
The game does not disappoint. Portugal scores first in the first half with an easy Nani goal to the right of the net. Every time Ronaldo merely touches the ball, the girls squeal – such hype. The Seleção chant “Cri-sti-ano Ro-nal-do!” to the baseline of Seven Nation Army by The White Stripes. Bradley blows an easy lob. Then Jermaine Jones blasts a curving free kick into the net just out of reach of the goalie. The US fans become feverish and frenzied. Unbelievably, in the 81st minute, Dempsey chest bumps it in again to take the lead.
The stadium seems to tremble. I get a little lightheaded from the euphoria. Their fans lose hope and congratulate us. Then, with only 30 seconds left, Ronaldo lofts a brilliant cross to Varela who heads it in the goal. The game ends unceremoniously and what an incredible let down. Because of Ronaldo’s last minute draw, the US is going home.
Results
After we fly home, things don’t work out for Brazil either. Before the semifinal, Neymar is out with a back injury and Thiago Silva is on suspension. Germany humiliates the host in a shocking 7-1 collapse. This has echoes of the 1950 World Cup final loss to the Uruguayans in Rio. At the final in legendary Maracanã, Miroslav Klose leads Germany over Messi’s Argentina for the title.
RUSSIA
Russia 2018
| When: 2018 Where: St. Petersburg, Sochi, Moscow |
The Mongol invasions of Russian lands isolated them from the West and encouraged autocratic rule. The monarchs built opulent palaces and grandiose monuments to project this dominance. For the World Cup, Russia issues a visa for all ticketholders without the typical difficult vetting process.
St. Petersburg
You can spend days exploring the gilded royal palaces and fortresses. The Peterhof’s Grand Cascade is transcendent with two staircases descending from the palace balcony to a grotto. There are dozens of golden statues and fountains next to the stairs that empty into a semicircular pool. At the center, Samson rips a lion’s mouth open, shooting a jet of water 20 meters into the air. The amount of priceless treasures at the Hermitage, Catherine the Great’s winter palace, is enough to make any proletariat furious. The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood’s onion domes provide a perfect backdrop for a pirouetting Sugar Plum Fairy.
Argentine fans have occupied the subway stations and trains to the match versus Nigeria. As the fans stream into Krestovsky Stadium, they sing their football songs. To enter the stadium, you must scan the barcode on your Fan ID badge and ticket. Empty your pockets, pass through a metal detector, and brace for a pat down. Inside, vendors sell hats, shirts, and other merchandise. We try to haggle with an unofficial vendor, but security quickly shuts them down. We get Nigerian caps since it looks like the Super Eagles could use some help tonight.
Game Time
Both teams line up at the tunnel entrance and each player is next to a kid. A giant flag practically covers each half of the field. Players and kids line up at the center and then they play the national anthems of both teams.
In the last group match, both teams must not lose in order to advance to the Round of 16. The Albiceleste is clearly dominating the match. Lionel Messi traps the ball on his leg, flips it to his foot, and launches it into the goal. GOOOOOAL! Victor Moses equalizes for Nigeria on a penalty kick. With mere minutes left, Marcos Rojos drills a shot into the corner and Argentina makes it to the next round.
As the fans stream out of the stadium, the singing gets louder. Stripes of colored lights zoom across the stadium walls. The lines to the port-a-potties are out of control. Russian soldiers direct the herd to the next Metro station. Inside the train, we are all packed like a can of sardines. With the midnight sun, it is still bright outside as people head inside for borscht, blini, and vodka. Fans keep wandering the streets at 5 in the morning. A couple of owls perch their talons onto my wrists.
Sochi
With Sochifornia’s sunny skies and hot temperatures, people flock to the rocky beaches by the Black Sea. On the walk from the Olympic Village to the Olympic Stadium, some Portuguese fans told us about Putin’s palace. Our midfield seats are close enough that we can see the yellow-vested security guards facing the spectators. Early on, Cavani and Suárez whip the ball back and forth for Uruguay’s first goal. Later, Pepe knocks in a header for Portugal. Cavani curls the ball into the far corner to seal the win for Uruguay.
Moscow
Moscow is a global cultural epicenter with undeniable architecture. Head to St. Basil’s Cathedral. Its onion domes have alternating swirls of color. Some domes are jagged green and yellow diamonds, while others have candy cane stripes. Gawk at the crown jewels and Fabergé eggs in the Kremlin Armory. Marvel at the shocking number of shiny golden domes of all the Orthodox cathedrals in the Kremlin.
The Moscow Metro stations have opulent carvings and marble columns. From the elegant Metro station, it is a straight line to Luzhniki Stadium. We give hearty high fives to the World Cup volunteers with the big foam hands.
Game Time
In front of the stadium is a giant statue of Lenin, leader of the Russian Revolution and first Soviet ruler. They have removed most Communist monuments, but some symbols still remain. There’s a hot spot in the stands that looks like a giant is using a magnifying glass to burn ants.
Sergei Ignashevich almost tackles Sergio Ramos, but the ball bounces off his back heel for an own goal! On a penalty kick, the big striker Artem Dzyuba plants a shot in the opposite corner to even the score. Thanks to the incredible heroics of the keeper, Igor Akinfeev, in the penalty shootout, Russia upsets Spain at home.
Russ-Si-Ya! Russ-Si-Ya! Russ-Si-Ya!
People rush out in the streets. A lady guides a wheelchair out of the fray by pushing people out of the way and then saying please. Russian flags wave everywhere. Women run around with their red, white, and blue face paint. Claustrophobic subway cars carry chanting fans. People lean onto neighbors to stay upright when the train takes off and stops. People on descending escalators high five fans on ascending escalators. One person toots a horn in three rapid bursts. Above ground, the wide sidewalks along the grand Moscow boulevards overflow with yelling fans in all directions. Multiple cars form an impromptu parade as they honk their horns, wave flags from the sunroof, and scream. At the market next to our hotel, someone has smashed the glass door. A woman rides a horse across the street at sunrise.
Results
Les Bleus beat Croatia to secure the second World Cup trophy for France. At just 19 years old, Kylian Mbappé emerged as an elite striker during the championship run.
QATAR
Qatar 2022
| When: 2022 Where: Doha |
Qatar was once the domain of wandering Bedouin nomads, a handful of fishing villages, and pearl divers. Now, its 313,000 citizens have the world’s highest GDP through its massive natural gas and oil reserves. Over 2.9 million migrant workers keep the country running. Qatar uses sportswashing to enhance its global status by constructing eight new stadiums. At the same time, they repress women and caused the deaths of 6,500 migrant workers from South Asia.
In addition to exploring Doha, you can go dune bashing, sandboarding, ride camels, and visit the Inland Sea.
Doha
See Doha’s modern city skyline from Doha Skyline Viewpoint across from Dhow Harbour. Doha is a rapidly growing city with over 16 skyscrapers over 600 feet completed in the last ten years. Another 16 are on hold or currently under construction. Some are like twisting tornados, torches, cylindrical spires, star gates, and shark’s fins. The futuristic skyscrapers of Doha are amazing at night.
Al Bayt Stadium
Al Bayt Stadium looks like a traditional nomadic tent. All the matches are late at night because of the intense daytime heat. This is the first World Cup where the tickets have gone digital. Your tickets, visa, and ID are all stored on the Hayya app. The concessions stands don’t serve alcohol, just soft drinks and snacks.
In the first half, Davy Klaassen makes a great pass to Cody Gakpo, who finds the corner of the goal. After the half, Frenkie de Jong taps the ball in the net after a rebound from a missed shot. The match then becomes a defensive hold for the Netherlands, who will now continue in the knockout stages. Qatar’s participation in the tournament has finished. Leaving is a challenge since the parking area is a mad zone with drivers and riders heading in every direction. You must call the Uber driver in order to locate the car.
Rooftop Viewing Parties
Walima is a spectacular rooftop restaurant at the Mondrian Doha, near the Pearl. There are jaw-dropping views of the pearl-shaped island and the West Bay skyscrapers. On the rooftop, massive screens frame the skyline while a DJ spins pulsing grooves. Catch World Cup matches while snacking on lamb kofta wraps.
Lusail Stadium
Bowl-shaped Lusail is the largest stadium in Qatar and will host the World Cup final. After an uneventful first half, Mexico scores two quick goals right after half time. Alone in front of the goal, Henry Martín hits a point blank shot in the center of the goal. Luis Chavez takes the free kick. The ball rises over the wall and over the keeper’s extended arms by the near post. In the 90th minute, Salem Al Dawsari scores a surprise goal. However, even with the win, Mexico is out of the tournament. Poland made it out of the group based on goal differential. Mexico was even with Poland on points, goals scored, and head-to-head record. But Saudi’s last minute goal resulted in a smaller goal differential for Mexico.
Fan Festival
In Doha, fans can congregate at the FIFA Fan Festival in Al Bidda Park. It is an outdoor party where fans from all over the world can celebrate football, music, culture, and lifestyle. There is a giant concert stage with various guests and DJs. In the sky, fireworks explode to the beat. Drones form moving 3D shapes such as a football player kicking a ball or a rotating Welcome to Qatar sign.
Al Janoub Stadium
The legendary architect Zaha Hadid designed the stadium. The curvilinear shape is a nod to the area’s seafaring past. The roof evokes the inflated wind-filled sails of traditional dhow boats. The air conditioning at the open air stadium is constant and strong, powered by solar energy. In the hot desert evening, arctic blasts pour out of the stadium seats and escape through the roof.
Uruguay has a beautiful, long, and rousing anthem. Ghana’s goal section is feisty and their energy remains high throughout the entire match. The Black Stars blow a penalty kick early on. In response, Facundo Pellistri crosses to Luis Suarez (the gifted biter) who kicks a low shot blocked by the keeper. Giorgian De Arrascaeta heads the ball by the far post. Suarez fakes a header and instead passes it to De Arrascaeta, who knocks it for Uruguay’s second goal.
Ghana needed a draw to advance, but got behind early in the first half. With Uruguay tied with Korea on points, two goals were not enough to advance either.
VVIP
There’s nothing new about VIP access at sporting events, concerts, or clubs. At the Qatar World Cup, they take it to the next level. For a very very important person, the stadium hides the VVIP entrance from regular fans. A VVIP, like Qatar’s Emir, arrives via helicopter, where a waiting Mercedes drives right to the special luxury suite.
For regular VIPs, there are five tiers of hospitality. The top-tier ($5k) Pearl Lounge has a bed, bathroom, shower, six-course meal by private chef, plus a commemorative gift.
Results
The final match is one for the ages. Argentina’s Albiceleste is hoping to finally win one for Lionel Messi. Mbappé is looking to defend the crown for Les Bleus and France. Mbappé’s hat trick ties the match at the end of extra time. But, during the penalty shootout, Messi and the Albiceleste are perfect while the French side miss twice.
USA, Mexico, Canada 2026
| When: 2026 Where: USA, Mexico, Canada |
For the first time in World Cup history, there are three host nations. Canada, Mexico, and the US sides will each enjoy the benefits of local fan support and playing on home soil. The tournament is also expanding to 48 teams to line FIFA’s pockets. Although I live in a host city, LA, excessive ticket prices will require watching the matches from a TV. Shelling out $500 to $2,000 can almost cover the price of a trip to the next World Cup. Also, a parking pass will set you back $250. New to the game are hydration breaks due to extreme heat across North America, which likely generates more ad revenue.
Fan Festival
At the Lays Table booth, you can season chips with global flavors inspired by the teams playing in the tournament. This includes Moroccan Harissa, Iraqi Dolma, Carne Asada, and Stroopwafel.
Memorable Moments
Norwegian fans are in their seats air rowing their phantom Viking long boats. Thousands of invisible oars rise in unison as they pull their side closer to victory.
Mbappe, Haalan, Kane, and Vinicius each have two in their first matches. Messi responds with a dazzling hat trick.
During the Mexico-Korea match, Mexican and Korean fans dance during watch parties in K-Town. Some fans even rooted for both teams. Not so surprising since LA is the birthplace of the bulgogi taco, which launched the food truck revolution. The real question is whether to munch on bacon wrapped hot dogs or grilled galbi short ribs.
The US has two convincing victories in the group stage to secure a top seed in the first elimination round. Even the great striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic says it is possible for the US to win. Keep believing!
Visit the Host Nations
For more information about recent host nations, check out the following: