| Objective: Learn to Surf in Santa Monica, California Surfing Time: 2 hours |
California’s magical coastline lures you to the water like the mythical siren’s song. Each surf spot adds its unique lore to the legendary surf culture. If you are searching for the perfect wave in LA, then your best bet may be Venice, Malibu, or Topanga. If you are just starting out, whether you are a grom or a kook, check out a surf class. Santa Monica Beach has a beach break on a mushy sandbar offering mellow waves perfect for beginners.
| Directions | Weather Report | Beach Lesson | Safety First | Become One with the Board | Riding the Waves | Time to Level Up! | Getting the Hang of it | The Stoke Is Real | Plan Your Visit |
Directions to Meeting Spot
| Head west on the 10 freeway. Take exit 1B for Lincoln Boulevard. Turn left onto Lincoln Boulevard and continue for 0.3 miles. Make a right onto Ocean Park Boulevard and drive for 0.7 miles. Turn left onto Barnard Way and drive another 0.1 miles. Turn right at the parking lot. Pay $15 for the day. Go to the southern end of Lot 5 South and look for the yellow and orange Kapowui VW bus. |
Weather Report
On this May day, the coast is cold and gloomy. The morning is overcast with a bit of a drizzle. Sometimes it isn’t all golden Cali sunshine. There are tons of runners on the boardwalk plus the occasional cyclist. I’m early so I walk off my nerves by going up the spiral at Ocean View Park.
Beach Lesson
After putting on a wetsuit, I meet my animated and upbeat surf instructor for the private lesson, Todd. He describes the parts of the 9-foot foam long board. The nose is at the front and the tail is at the back with rails on each side.
The pop up consists of four stages:
- Paddle Position: Lie down flat with your toes pushing against the board just an inch from the tail. Plant your hands into the board along your sides by the rib cage.
- Push up into Cobra: Push your torso up so your arms are straight and your elbows locked. Your body should be in a cobra position.
- Lunge your Front Leg: Sweep your front foot up onto the board. You should be in a runner’s lunge pose.
- Stand up on Your Back Leg: Stand up on your back leg. Your front foot pivots facing the right of the board while your back foot simultaneously drags to the center. Your feet should be shoulder width apart. Bend your knees. Raise your arms parallel with the board so that both hands are pointing in line with the nose. Keep your eyes looking ahead and scan the shoreline.
After some practice popping up in the sand, we’re almost ready to head into the water.
Safety First
As you head into the surf, tilt the nose of the board. Then push down on the board as you slide above the oncoming wave.
If you’re falling off your board, make sure to spread your arms apart to cushion your landing on the water. Fall forward or just lean back.
If you go underwater, cover your head with both forearms together by your face and your hands wrapping your crown. That way, you protect your head from the board and its sharp fins.
Become One with the Board
Now it’s time to go into the water. At first, the water is a little chilly, but soon enough you become comfortable with the temperature. You swing your legs over and lie on the board. Todd is also in the water to help position the board and while I learn to catch waves. The plan is for him to push the board before the wave breaks to practice popping up in the water.
A gentle wave starts to roll in. Todd calls out each stage of the pop up. Time to push up into cobra. I hear the call to get up so I sweep my left leg into a lunge, then I stand up. I rotate and plant my feet so they are facing the right rail. My arms go up slowly as I figure out my balance.
Hold on, I’m up now. I catch a wave on my first attempt and ride it all the way back to shore. At the end, I do a trust fall and my butt lands on the shallow sand. I probably should have dismounted with little steps to land on my feet. Todd cheers and I return to the waves. I pump my fist! We discuss what went well. My balance is really good and my pop up time is quick. I just need to raise arms up faster. Once you pop up, just commit and raise your arms even if you are finding your balance.
Riding the Waves
Things are going well! A couple more waves, and I ride those to the shore rather smoothly. Now Todd suggests pushing a little less so I can start paddling. You start paddling and your lungs burn almost immediately. But it’s all good, there are a few more tasty waves back to the sand.
In between sets, during a lull, we see a number of velella floating on the glassy water. These jellyfish-like creatures are actually colonies of organisms. Also known as “by-the-wind sailors,” they have a sapphire oval bottom and a translucent sail. During El Niño years, the ocean washes millions to California beaches in the spring.
Time to Level up!
Now, there will be no more pushes. It’s time go all in on the paddling. The form of the arm through the water is more important than the speed. Your arms need to follow through all the way. I catch the next couple waves just fine. Then, I finally wipe out on a gnarly break. The instructor couldn’t see what happened, but I think I was too far back on the board. I need to remember to plant my feet closer to the nose. The long board is so stable almost like a boat, and you can always walk forward and make minor adjustments. On the very next wave, I move forward to make the board go faster. Keeping to the tail is sort of like hitting the brakes.
I play with turning the board a little. While I can’t hang my toes over yet, I move side to side and the board kind of turns.
Getting the Hang of it
As I wait for the next wave, I look back to the incoming swells. Todd is still helping me pick which waves to go for. Some are too small and slow. Some are too high and accelerate too fast. The waves in Santa Monica are small, mostly two to three feet tall. It seems that every two minutes, there’s another one that is just right, which I can handle.
Sometimes after I paddle and then pop up, I get a bit ahead of the wave. The wave is curling and still propelling me forward. Then, I sense that it’s about to break. A second later, the crashing wave drives the board with another boost of speed. Time is slowing down somewhat. At first, it seemed like there was hardly enough time to just stay on the board. Now, there seems to be more time to stand up straighter and move around in those precious split seconds.
The Stoke Is Real
There are some perfect moments, when you execute everything correctly and the wave has plenty of speed and power. It’s a heady rush of adrenaline and thrill from riding this primal force of nature. I’m also glad that I’m improving rapidly. On my best ride, I see a giant black fish, which I learn was a leopard shark.
The two-hour mark is fast approaching. Todd asks if I’m getting tired. I answer “not at all,” and he clears me for two more waves. I grab the board and rush back in the froth past the impact zone. The last wave carries me back to the beach and I hop off gently on the sand.
All that yoga has paid off. I have great trust in my balance, which feels really strong. Also countless miles running has provided the required lower body strength and endurance.
I’m ready to take what I have learned and keep improving. I pretty much caught every wave except for one. I’m so stoked after catching 50 waves! Next time, I want to work on wave selection and timing without help from an instructor.
Plan Your Visit
Vendor: Kapowui Surf Club
Parking: Lot 5 South: $15 per entry on the weekend Schedule:
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