| Objective: Hike Kalepa Ridge in Kauai Location: Kauai, Hawaii, Pacific Ocean Distance: 1.8 miles (out and back) Elevation Gain: 602 feet down and 602 feet back up Trip Length: 3 hours Terrain: Mountain ridges, valleys, waterfalls, beach, ocean Best time to visit: When it is not raining |
The Kalepa Ridge Trail offers some of the most spectacular views of the Kalalau Valley and Na Pali coast. Kalalau Valley is a paradise in the Garden Island. The epic mix of red and orange mountain ridgelines, green valleys, and turquoise ocean is unrivaled. The only ways to get there are via helicopter, boat, or a 22-mile round-trip hike along the treacherous Kalalau Trail.
Warning: There is significant exposure (with 1,000′ drops) on both sides of the narrow trail. The steep sections are slippery even when it isn’t rainy. No one officially maintains this hunter’s path, and it’s easy to make a wrong turn down a dangerous route. So, be safe, be smart, and hire a guide.
Directions to Trailhead
| Head west on HI-50. In Waimea, turn right on Waimea Canyon Road (HI-550). Continue driving 18 miles until you reach almost the end of the road at Kalalau Lookout in Koke’e State Park. |
Directions to Ni’ani’au
| Trailhead: Head northwest on Kalepa Ridge Trail. 0.9 miles: You have reached Ni’ani’au. Return to trailhead. |
The Adventure Begins
Because of the island’s extreme terrain, the perimeter road stops short of Na Pali’s impenetrable northwest coast. This is at the end of the road in an isle at the edge of the world’s most isolated archipelago. Therefore, a guide can lead you through the pitfalls of a ridge overlooking the valley. We meet our guides, Tab and Justin, at a local market across from the Captain Cook monument. Then we follow Tab’s truck to Kalalau Lookout.
It’s all downhill from here (not as good as it sounds)
At Kalalau Lookout, we walk through a gate in the green fence to reach the trailhead. The foliage is dense and damp from the light rain. Between the tree roots, the red clay-like mud grabs your feet with every step. The trail immediately descends at a sharp angle with many frequent turns. A couple times, my tennis shoes pull the old slippery banana peel routine on the slick path.
I have an infant carrier containing my nephew James in front. Now, my center of balance is oddly higher and more forward than normal for a downward climb. My knees groan as they work harder to keep my feet firmly planted. My brother-in-law, Brian, is leading the charge and carrying my niece Eleanor. At the first flat, Tab offers my mom a pair of micro-spikes for her shoes. This is a great idea since he caught her after she slipped on the path.
The way flattens out a bit while Tab tells us about the koa tree. This native species has curved brown seedpods and long slender branches. Its wood is good for furniture and string instruments.
After emerging from a tunnel through a fern thicket, we stop at the bottom of the first hill. We see the grand expanse of the Kalalau Valley. We spot many forms of flying objects – from a line of helicopters buzzing waterfalls to white-tailed tropicbirds. The tropicbirds soar along the thermals, with a tail more than double its body length, reminiscent of pterosaurs.
There’s always a plank
You should avoid looking over your right shoulder at the valley or the sheer drop-offs of the severely exposed trail. Focus on your footwork and lean a bit to the slope on your left. At one stretch, with the obvious drop to the right, there’s a gentle patch of tall grass on the other. It gives you a false sense of security since you can easily fall in both directions. The narrow trail rides high on Kalepa Ridge with Kalalau Valley to the east and Honopu Valley to the west.
Jaw-dropping scenery
At last, you reach the final knobby platform on the “peak” of Ni’ani’au. From this great perch, you see wispy white Kalalau Beach sandwiched between the valleys and the robin egg blue ocean.
The rocky ridgelines fanning out below Kalepa Ridge are razor sharp and serrated. The ridge across the valley also looks like the Incredible Hulk’s green bulging veins.
It is a great relief that my parents, sister, and the little ones could hike Kalepa Ridge to Ni’ani’au. Even the hike’s structure has flipped. We descended to a mountain peak and will climb back up during the return. We’re not at the highest point, yet we are hardly at a low point. At this spot, we have found balance on an orange bump. Dragonflies whizz around the middle of a swirling palette.
Cloaked in clouds
On the way back up, the clouds have rolled into the valley bringing much appreciated shade.
Our other guide, Justin tells us how he uses the paths in this valley for hunting. His dogs chase down wild boars and he finishes them off with a knife. Then he carries the prize on his back up this slope. Very impressive for a 130-pounder who hikes this barefoot.
For once, thankful for the uphill
Carrying James uphill is oddly much easier than downhill because of the way the weight sits. This trek has been a nice bonding moment for us. The smart little one instinctively knows when to lean closer to me and hold on. As we squeeze through hedges narrower than my shoulders, I cover his uncovered legs to prevent scratches from wayward twigs.
The final climb has reduced the chance of falling off a cliff, so it’s just rapid heartbeats until the end. Back at the luscious rainforest at the top, we feel exhilarated and accomplished – the perfect way to start the day.
