| Objective: Antarctic kayaking Distance: 26.7 miles (round-trip) Trip Length: 11 days Best time to visit: November to March Caution: Extreme cold, sea sickness, rough seas |
Ahoy, matey! Are you a modern Captain Nemo seeking maritime mysteries? The seas around Antarctica are guarded by glowing blue icebergs and giant whales. At the southern continent, Antarctic kayaking is a unique way to experience this magical environment.
Getting to Antarctica
Ushuaia is located in Argentina’s portion of Tierra del Fuego. As the world’s southernmost city, Ushuaia is the starting point for the expedition ship as it navigates the Beagle Channel. Be brave and endure for two days, while 17-foot waves smack the vessel as it crosses the treacherous Drake Passage. During the first night, crew members bolt the porthole in our cabin shut, as we watch the water level rise. At the Antarctic Convergence, cold Southern Ocean waters mix with warm northern waters, causing turbulent conditions.
Land ho! We have spotted land along the South Shetland Islands. The Antarctic Peninsula includes the continental mainland and islands off the western coast.
Antarctic Kayaking
To explore Antarctica, there are excursions in the morning and afternoon, either by motorized Zodiac boat or by kayak. Before we disembark, we head to the mudroom and put on our dry suit, kayaking booties, kayak skirt, and PFD. There is a door leading to the side of the ship where we haul our kayaks outside. There are also sturdy inflatable Zodiacs ready to ferry us to the polar continent. We see penguin colonies, lounging seals, and the remains of whaling ships and explorers from bygone eras.
Sea kayaking is the ultimate way to see Antarctica’s treasures. At water level, the craft is non-threatening to colossal whales and curious seals alike. The gentle pace gives you time to appreciate the kaleidoscopic terrain and listen to the ice below.
Penguin Island: Welcome to Antarctica
| Coordinates: 62.05.54’S, 057.54.84’W Distance: 5.26 miles |
From the north of Penguin Island, the team circumnavigates the perimeter of the isle in a clockwise manner. Our five kayaks pass a mega-iceberg and stare at its deep blue stripes. The low-slung kayak offers a unique perspective of the giant elephant seals resting on the rocky promontories. Off in the distance, we hear a strong gushing sound. The heavy breathing becomes louder and more distinct. Then, only 20 feet from our bow, an endangered Southern Right Whale sends a V-shaped spray from its blowhole.
Penguin Island is our first chance to set foot on the continent of Antarctica. On shore, you notice giant whale skeletons left by whalers from long ago. There are large colonies of chinstrap and gentoo penguins. Many of them are marching up the penguin highway. There are so many colors (reds, greens, grays, blues), textures (rocks, water, mountains), and smells (mainly penguin guano). It is much more than the vanilla visions of flat white expanses. At the top is the large red cinder cone of Deacon Peak that takes half an hour to walk up.
Paradise Harbor: Mainland of Antarctica
| Coordinates: 64.53.42.’S, 062.51.85’W Distance: 4.56 miles |
We paddle past the gray stone coast of Argentina’s research base, Almirante Brown. The shore is full of Gentoo penguins, Antarctic shags, and Antarctic fur seals. Near Skontorp Cove, a glacier has deposited a moraine with sediments flowing into the water. We turn directly toward the rocky beach and land our kayak. And then, like kids rushing to unwrap gifts, we step on the mainland of Antarctica! We wildly wave our paddles and leap above the rocks.
Petermann Island: Monumental Brutal Ice
| Coordinates: 65.11.7’S, 064.08.23’W Distance: 4.44 miles |
From Port Circumcision, we try to circle around Petermann Island and meet at the southern end. Yet, the sea is dark and choppy. Brash ice scrapes loudly as it pushes the sides of the boat and rudder. Harsh waves roll at us from all directions. As we face an incoming swell, the bow turns up to the sky. We catch some air, then the hull makes a dull hollow sound. The surreal silhouettes of the ice sculptures wobble and shake on the rippling water. A mountain-sized iceberg seesaws violently. We take a swirling path around a frosty obstacle course of tabular icebergs, bergy bits, and growler ice. My mind drifts off to visions of sugarplums, molars, frozen waves, and giant bluish-white Cheetos dancing in my head.
Port Lockroy
| Coordinates: 64.49.58’S, 63.30.09’W Distance: 3.25 miles |
We paddle into Port Lockroy by the shallow water near Jougla Point and Goudier Island. Then, we head south into Peltier Channel and float at the base of Mt. Luigi and the Fief Range. The tranquil water here is magnificently calm and gentle. Port Lockroy is also home to the Penguin Post Office, where you can send a postcard home from Antarctica.
Antarctic kayaking is demanding. You wake up early, move gear around, lift kayaks off the ship, paddle for hours, and tend to blisters. Enjoying the otherworldly scenery makes it all worth it.
Damoy Point: Savage Wildlife Encounter
| Coordinates: 64.48.81’S, 63.31.22’W Distance: 5.33 miles |
We follow the penguin colony spread across the bands of rock and snow banks along Damoy Point’s coast. The red and green ground is not penguin guano. Christmas-colored algae covers the shore.
After turning to Dorian Bay, we spot a leopard seal with a freshly caught penguin. The penguin is still alive and flopping around. But the seal viciously slams its prey against the water and tosses it up in the air. At some point, the guts spill out. This late in the season, the seals have already fattened up and are at maximum body mass. They are not really hungry and are merely playing with their food.
Deception Island: A Hidden Atoll Playground
| Coordinates: 62.58.88’S, 60.93.79’W Distance: 3.87 miles |
Starting from Whaler’s Bay, we paddle through calm and glassy water below the shelter of the inner wall. As we are in the middle of a large volcanic caldera, the area smells like sulfur. We shoot a patch of white water under an arch named the Needle by Deception Island’s hidden entrance, Neptune’s Bellows. Then, we hug the coast along the high jagged outer wall of the atoll until Neptune’s Window and turn around. On the way back to Whaler’s Bay, a couple seals follow our boats during our last round of kayaking.
We line up for some pictures then we dash across the black volcanic rock beach. The toes feel the chill first, a few more steps, and then I dive headfirst into the frosty Antarctic water. After the polar plunge, in the mudroom, we warm up with shots of aquavit.
Plan Your Antarctic Kayaking Adventure
| Transportation: Catch a flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Fly to Ushuaia. Embark for Antarctica on an expedition ship. At Antarctica, there are zodiac boats and kayaks. Excursions: There are two per day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. You can select Antarctic kayaking or hiking for either of the excursions. Lodging: The expedition ship has cabins for two to three people. Food: Delicious meals are provided in the dining room of the expedition ship. Vendor: G Adventures |
If you would like to kayak in a warmer climate, how about the South of France?
Video Tour of Antarctic Kayaking