| Objective: Rock climbing at Point Dume, Malibu, California Route: Arete | Left Arete | Center | South Face Right | Chute Grade: 5.6-5.9 |
Are you thinking about taking your rock climbing outside of the gym? After a short drive on PCH to Point Dume in Malibu, there are fun climbing routes in a stunning setting. Here you can try top-rope climbing with sensational views of the beach and ocean. Point Dume’s coastal bluff pokes into the northern end of Santa Monica Bay. The cliff has a west-facing wall and a south-facing wall with seven routes. In LA, this is the best place to rock climb for the first time with accessible routes and breathtaking scenery.
Since rock climbing is a popular Father’s Day activity, they rescheduled me and I am the only climber. My guide, Roger, has been climbing since he was 14. He is here to make sure you enjoy the views while climbing and is great at explaining the necessary techniques. Roger has already set up the top rope through bolts at the top of the cliff. Today’s climbing includes five routes on each side of the cliff.
Arete (5.6)
This is a great beginner’s climb at the corner where the sand meets the sea. A couple top-anchors hold the rope. The edge of the west-facing wall at Point Dume has lots of holds for your hands and feet. At the start, there are plenty of holes and grooves to grab onto. The volcanic basalt is a hard steady rock. The edge itself provides nice jagged slabs to grip. Around the middle, there are a couple spots where the face is flat and vertical with few holds. Roger guides me to a couple toe ledges. He belays the rope tightly so there is very little slack. As a beginner, I feel safe and benefit greatly from the assist.
After slowing a bit, I push to the top with a little momentum. Right at 100 feet – not bad for my very first climb! After rappelling to the bottom, I discuss with Roger the positives and negatives of the climb. We agree that I need to work on placing more of my weight on my toes.
Left Arete (5.8)
This one is just next to the edge route. While there are some holds and bolts, there are fewer spots to grab with your hands. The ledges and holds are smaller than coins. As a result, you need to work on your footwork and how to shift your weight between your feet. On this route, it’s more difficult to determine where to go next. I have to let the tension in the rope help me get up in a couple areas. Afterwards, I feel some strain in my Achilles tendon.
At this point, I need to remember how to position my heel. It depends on whether my weight is on a toe or the ball of my foot. For a toe hold, your heel should be up. When the ball of your foot is on a perch, you should lower your heel. I also need to remember to stand after I place my toe.
Center (5.7)
At the center of the west-facing wall, this route has thin crimps – small edges for finger holds. The route definitely provides some thrills. I notice that my survival instinct has kicked into overdrive. My breathing becomes heavy and my blood pressure is rising. There are terrifying moments when you can’t find a ledge and your toe just slips into the air. I stop halfway because I couldn’t figure out where to place my feet or what to grab. Next time, I need to trust the rope and the rubber in the shoes.
South Face Right
After Roger puts up another top rope on the south-facing wall, I grab the packs and scramble over some rocks. This is a really fun one like a puzzle. First, there is some light scrambling to the right. Then you work back to the left by a small cave. At the cave, you walk right. You should have your feet hanging off the ledge so you aren’t smushed flat against the cave wall. However, I just crawled and ducked under the cave celling – oops. After a couple bolts, you need to follow a flake to the top. From this oceanside viewpoint, you can look north to Zuma or watch the waves right below. I have to cheat off the rope and am pulled up a bit, but eventually make it.
Next time, I need to work on my technique with flakes. Grab the side of the flake and then hang back with straight arms until you find something to step on. You need to keep your arms straight and not burn them out with lactic acid.
Chute
At the right of the south face, there is a fun chute. There are lots of ledges and tiny holes to hold onto. The brown rock is crumbly, so you need to check before you pull. You can scramble up the first bit. Inside the chute, there are plenty of spots to stand and grab. There are also some opportunities to wedge your legs and arms to shimmy up the chute. I am stuck in a notch at the top. I can’t see how to get around the overhang. It’s time to head down.
Directions to Westward Beach
| Head west on the 10 W. At Santa Monica, continue on Pacific Coast Highway (CA-1). Head west for 20 miles. Turn left onto Westward Beach Road and drive 0.7 miles. Pay for parking and drive all the way to the end of the road to the lot by Point Dume. Look for a yellow FJ Cruiser with Rock n Rope stickers. Call (310) 975-4049 if you have any questions. |
Plan Your Visit for Rock climbing at Point Dume
| Vendor: Rock N Rope Adventures Price: $199 – plus beach parking ($15) Ratio: 4 climbers per guide Bring: Water, backpack, snacks, flexible clothes, long pants, hiking shoes Includes: Climbing shoes, harness, helmet, chalk bag Meeting Spot: Westward Beach Rd, Malibu, CA 90265 Schedule:
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