| Devil’s Pool – Victoria Falls – Fun Facts Nickname: Mosi-oa-Tunya (The Smoke that Thunders) Height: 354 feet Width: 5,608 feet Height of Mist: 1,300 feet Location: Zambia–Zimbabwe border Claim to Fame: World’s largest sheet of falling water |
Would you dare swim to the edge of the world’s largest waterfall? From Livingstone Island in Zambia, you swim past hippos and crocodiles to Devil’s Pool, the world’s most thrilling infinity pool. At the edge, watch as the Zambezi’s raging waters flow past you, crash over the cliff, and drop down 320’.
Livingstone Island | Boat Tour | Swim across the Zambezi | Approaching the Pool | Leap into the Devil’s Pool | Mist and Rainbows | Little Luxuries | Angel or Devil? | View from Zimbabwe
Livingstone Island Launch Site
If you can’t book a place in Zambia, the Kingdom Hotel in Zimbabwe is a great option. It is right next to Victoria Falls National Park.
After an early start, I rush to the border zone. The Zimbabwe post stamps my passport. I bypass the vendors and walk across the steel Victoria Falls Bridge. Then, the Zambia office stamps my passport next to a giant line of trucks hauling copper.
I wave down a taxi driver. After a two-minute drive, we arrive at the Royal Livingstone Hotel. Seeing a giraffe chomping on some tree leaves during the morning ride is pretty cool. The Royal Livingstone is majestic. The entrance is open and airy like a tunnel. On the other side is a verandah on the Zambezi River with guests enjoying breakfast. I stroll along the green tree-lined river embankment and sit on one of the many swing seats facing the falls.
Boat Tour
At 8:30 a.m., I join an eclectic group of eight at the Launch Site. We hop onto a little aluminum motorboat and put on life preservers. The boat immediately zooms away from the riverbank and heads toward Livingstone Island. The boat points at the edge of Victoria Falls and at this speed it feels like we’ll soar right over. The Smoke that Thunders tosses up mist, which mixes with some light rain, and produces a brilliant double rainbow. After five minutes, we land on a tiny sandy beach on Livingstone Island.
Swim Across the Zambezi River
We walk between a stand of trees on a muddy path to a tent. They instruct us to change into our swim suits and leave our bags in a locker. Our shoes go in another smaller tent. The rain begins pouring down harder as we walk down a slippery and rocky path into the Zambezi.
From Livingstone Island, you must swim about 50 meters across the Zambezi. The current is gentle. The guides will help you across if you’re not a strong swimmer. As for wildlife, they don’t usually come this close to the falls.
Approaching the Pool
We step into small slimy puddles bordered by grassy reeds. The guides hold our hands and draw us lower to the brink. We are shivering because of the brisk air and frigid water, as well as being so close to the void. Slowly, we inch nearer to Devil’s Pool. We cautiously dip our toes, gradually lower our wobbly legs into the chilly water, and notice our goose bumps. To the right, the Zambezi unloads untold volumes of water off a vertical face.
The rain and smoky mists frame the falls perfectly. To the left, the water flies off another precipice. We take tentative steps into the cold water and point of no return. The guides in their flip flops and green rain jackets confidently step on the very edge. They encourage us to keep moving forward. Your instincts are telling you how dangerous this is. They tell us not to stand, so we all quickly sit down.
Leap into the Devil’s Pool
One at a time, we head into the Devil’s Pool. By now, the water doesn’t feel as cold anymore, due to all the adrenaline coursing through my veins. The pool looks like a little ice bath. Behind you, a small cascade constantly froths and whirls. In front, the water streams over the side.
Across the river, you can see the Zimbabwean side. The little dots walk along the trail and look back. Could an exceptionally robust torrent of water flush us all over the side? Peer over the edge and watch the water ferociously fight its way through and aggressively churn in all directions. I don’t see the bottom, just a swirling cloud. And I feel a knot in my stomach. I lean back and the cascade crashes on my temple as it pushes my outspread arms down a little lower. I see water rushing toward me and I am very aware of the plummeting water behind my back.
How insane is this position? I want to scream at the top of my lungs, but I do not want to make any sudden moves. I raise both my arms in triumph and embrace the exhilaration. Like the water, thoughts race through my mind and the roar of the tumbling water voice these very primal sentiments.
Mist and Rainbows
We walk along the side to get a better look at the rainbow. At times, the mist shoots up and obscures the view of the other side. There is a plaque of Sir David Livingstone. (David Livingstone, I presume?) Africans admire him because he was critical of slavery. The guide mentions that at night hippos head out on this path to graze. Great timing while my bare feet slosh about in the mud.
Little Luxuries
After the swim, we return to the tents to change and they provide us with towels. We wash our feet regally with warm water. We relax in a dining tent and enjoy warm flaky croissants with bacon jam and coffee or tea. After the meal, they whisk us to the hotel and the speedboat kicks off a spray of its own.
Are You an Angel or a Devil?
There are actually two pools by the edge – Devil’s Pool and Angel’s Pool. The water levels dictate whether you can visit the Devil’s Pool or Angel’s Pool. Typically, from mid-August to January, the water levels are lower, which favors the Devil’s Pool. Either way, you are swimming at the edge of Victoria Falls.
I can’t think of a better way to experience a waterfall!
| Plan Your Visit: Vendor: Tongabezi Lodge Meeting Point: Livingstone Island Launch Site Group Size: Up to 24 Price: $135 – $200 depending on time of day When: Dry season (mid-August to late December) |
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View Victoria Falls from Zimbabwe
Most of Victoria Falls drops into the gorge from the Zambian side. After experiencing the falls in Zambia, the best place to view the falls is in Zimbabwe.
Victoria Falls National Park is a long trail along the edge of the chasm. There are many viewing points from west to east.
Start from the David Livingstone statue. The Devil’s Cataract has torn a chunk out of the basalt and separated itself from the rest of the falls. Through the trees, you can see the length of the gorge and the Main Falls to the left.
Wander through the ferns, palms, liana vines, and mahogany trees of the rainforest cloaked in the spray of the falls. As the trees thin out, you are on the edge of the plateau. If you look closely, you can see Livingstone Island and people in the Devil’s Pool. Even from this side, it’s shocking to see someone sitting at the cliff’s edge.
From here, you see Horseshoe Falls, Rainbow Falls, and the Eastern Cataract. At certain spots, the spray lands like rain, and you start to see rainbows and unicorns everywhere you look. The trail ends after the bridge at the Boiling Point.